Leather practically takes care of itself--it develops an amazing patina over time that helps resist water, wears in to fit better and better, stretches and bends and returns back to its shape. No wonder shoemakers since the beginning of time (or right around then) have used this hearty material in shoe making. For pioneers, globetrotters, and wanderers alike, a trusty leather shoe is their best friend. But as close to perfection as leather may seem, it falls sort of goddom in that it stills needs care to make it really last. You can double the lifetime of your shoes and boots with a little tender loving oil every now again--and when you're buying vintage, making things last is the name of the game. Today, we've put together a simple vintage care guide for your leather boots--to ensure they last until the seams quite literally, disintegrate.
There a many kinds of leather used in shoemaking, for all kinds of shoes. Some of these require a twist on what you use and how to clean them (eg. suede)--make sure to familiarize yourself with the type of leather your shoes are made of before jumping into the process. Leather care is a hobby in and of itself, and takes some practice as you learn how often to clean them, with what oil to condition them, and whether or not you want to include a polish. For this post, we are focusing on leather boots--think Frye, Ariat, cowboy, riding boots. Learning the art keeps your shoes well conditioned and prevents salt and water damage. When the leather starts looking dry, now is the time to condition. Keep a balance, though--over conditioning can break down the leather's naturally tough properties. Therefore, conditioning every 15-20 wears in normal conditions (aka West coast weather) is a good rule of thumb.
First and foremost, remove the laces and get a clean slate by brushing or wiping the dirt off your boots. You can use a regular plastic cleaning brush and a damp washcloth, then let them dry before moving on. If they are particularly dirty, try using a leather cleaner like Saphir Reno-Mat (think shampooing before a deep conditioning). Leaving boots dirty will only trap the grime in forever if you apply oil over top (no thank you).
While there are endless leather oils and cleaners out there, we are focusing on something you may already have on hand: coconut oil. If you would rather use a brand-specific conditioner (Frye and Clark make their own), or another oil such as Neatsfoot or linseed, test a small area first to see if it darkens the color and if you like the result.
With coconut oil, it has a melting point of around 75 degrees F--if it's not warm enough you can melt it with the heat of your breath and hands. Less is more here--start with a small amount of oil on your fingers, and begin gently rubbing it into one boot, then the other, giving them a light, even coat. Once finished with the second, go back to the first boot and run your finger back over the places where white reside accumulated. It all should rub back in--if not, try adding more pressure. Repeat on the second shoe. Let dry and rest for a full day, and if you discover you used too much oil, finish by running a dry cloth or paper towel over them to remove any excess. Then get those boots a walkin'!
A word of caution: stay away from external heat sources (anything but your hands and breath) to accelerate the drying process--the product will get over absorbed or you will over dry your leather. Also, cedar shoe trees are great for keeping the form of your boots and help naturally draw out moisture!
When the soles of your shoes are wearing thin (even amidst the diamonds), a great way to reinvigorate them is getting your boots resoled. Locally, Takken's Shoes does it for a reasonable price (less than $40) and about a week turnover--and they come back looking like new!
Want care tips for moccasins, Uggs, dress shoes, or other leather shoes? Ask in the comments below and we'll get back to you with specific tips and resources!
Finding a rug with a unique pattern and ideal color palette is a gem worth treasuring. And when you find that area rug, it ties the entire room together. To keep your interior design from unraveling over the years, we have a few upkeep tips for your various foot cushions. Often vintage and antique rugs are delicate due to their age, so it's key to treat them extra special. We have put together some basic care tips for different rug types, categorized based on the material/style they’re made with. Outside of basic vacuuming, it’s best to take your rugs out to a covered patio or outside space to really get your deep cleaning on.
FUR & SHEEPSKIN
Shake talcum powder (FYI: baby powder is made mostly with talcum, you can use it) all over onto your rug, and let it lie for 2-3 hours. Then brush the powder through the hair and shake, shake, shake. Repeat up to three times.
Then to clean the bottom, get a cloth damp with warm, soapy water and wipe down—let it air dry, and put back in place.
For a real deep clean, the thing to check is for waterproof backing. For rubber or latex backing, use a top loading machine, arranging evenly around the agitator (try throwing in a couple towels to balance the load). Set the machine to large load and cold water, only using half the amount of detergent (rugs just don’t need a lot)—dry on fluff. When it’s all dry, take a wide-tooth comb and re-fluff the fur.
These next two types may come with fringe, in which case you want to avoid that fringe with your vacuum at all costs. When washing, divide the fringe into groups and tie them with a string—keeps detangling to a minimum.
WOOL: ORIENTAL, PERSIAN & ANTIQUE
Before snagging the first cleaning product off the shelf at your local drugstore, be warned: DO NOT use ammonia or any other highly alkaline cleaner, it’ll damage the wool. If you’re not sure whether or not your rug is wool, snip a piece and light it with a match—real wool will smell like burning hair.
Start by turning your rug over and vacuum the underneath—it loosens the deep down nitty gritty and moves it to the surface. Then, flip the rug right side up and vacuum the top (tip: wrap nylon mesh around your vacuum to protect delicate and older rugs). If it’s small enough, hang it on a clothesline next and beat it like Michael Jackson or shake it like Taylor Swift.
For a really deep clean (it’s a good idea to do this kind of cleaning every 12-18 months—aka every Spring), put the small rugs in a zippered pillowcase or mesh laundry bag and wash in cold water on gentle, then tumble dry low. With large area rugs, make sure it is on a vinyl or concrete floor first (if wood is the only option, put an old blanket or towels underneath). Sponge some commercial carpet cleaning foam on and rub it in—ending by rinsing or vacuuming, letting it dry completely before replacing.
KILIM & WOVEN
Take a vacuum to it first, front and back. These are good ones to shake and beat outside, too. For washing, use a top loading machine, arranging evenly around the agitator (try throwing in a couple towels to balance the load). Set the machine to large load, cold water and delicate cycle—only using half the amount of detergent (rugs just don’t need a lot). These are best hung dry—on a drying rack, slatted picnic table, or stacked bricks—hanging them on a single line will distort the rugs shape.
Any good tricks of the trade? Share your foolproof rug care tips below!
